DAY 20. THE LAST TOUCH

I woke up closer to 10 o’clock, which was not typical for me at all. I guess I was tired. Today will be just as busy. I need to finish the boat and coat the bottom with bitumen to eliminate possible leaks. Yes, the craftsmen had done this when the boat was being built, but they probably were very economical with the materials. I really need the sun to shine brightly today, because the boat needs to dry properly.

While I was walking around my canoe, a tourist vessel docked at the pier. Its lower deck was loaded with cargo and the top three decks were filled with passengers in hammocks. The locals were busy unloading and loading something, and the tourists were crowded around the sides of the ship, pointing their fingers at my boat. I would not be surprised if it happened to be a highlight of their hammock cruise to see such a curiosity. I would never want to be in their shoes.

The solar panel was now securely fastened on top of the tent on a complete wooden frame made from sturdy planks. Now it cannot be torn out easily, any potential robber will have to sweat to do it.

At the stern I have added a hitch. There I will keep my rucksack, the ukulele, the packraft and warm clothes – all the unnecessary things. There will be even more space on the boat!

I also built a wave breaker. I added two bars to the bow of the boat – that should cut the incoming wave before it does too much damage. This should be handy on the big river. I also remembered that yesterday the carpenter Kohler was varnishing all the furniture he had made, so I walked to his shop so that this piece would be varnished as well. The carpenter happily agreed and polished it with a grinder at no charge.

You should have seen the looks the locals gave me the whole time. I do not think there was ever a gringo in the village who was putting his canoe together piece by piece. Some laughed at me, but most, to my delight, were supportive, and did not mask their respect, so any task was completed in a flash. Some brought extra boards, and some brought fruit, seeing that I was working on my project relentlessly, without any single break. Indeed, I often forget about food when I feel passionate about something.

I bought some bitumen and encountered one more obstacle. To melt it, one needs a metal bowl and a fire. That is where Tulio, who had recently given me a saw for my ‘construction of the century’, helped me out. When I had seen how well-honed his saw was, I immediately knew that he was a man of all trades, economical and handy. He had everything. He invited me into his house, set up a brazier, and made a ladle out of an old tin can, which I later used.

While the bitumen was melting, I found a thick plank for the keel and started shaping it with a machete. I had little experience, so another helper took the initiative: a guy named Renerio finished the job I had started.

With the stern suspended, we nailed the keel to the bottom of the boat. Perhaps now it would be easier for me to stick to my course. Before, the canoe was always spinning a little.

It is very hot today. Even if I do not complain, it is not easy for me. But my boat is finally dry, I was able to soak the bottom and the bulwark joints (I made them double, increasing the height) with bitumen for the second time. Hopefully this will help and I will not have to scoop water out of the boat every morning.

As soon as I was done with the bitumen, a cold wind picked up and brought rainclouds with it. It started to rain, and the rain quickly turned into a tropical downpour. I covered the canoe with the tent and took shelter in a nearby house, where I was treated to a dish called banana leaf pilaf (juane). It is very tasty. It was the workers of the nearby gas extraction plant that shared their meal with me. They had been watching my construction process with interest both the mornings – on their way to work.

The people here are amazing. I have never been offered so much help so quickly in any place in the world. I calmly leave my things and go into the village for half an hour, for an hour – without worrying about them, even though any loss would be irreplaceable. Like the solar panel, for instance. I am really glad I docked here. It is cool. I am very tired, but it was worth it. My ‘Freedom’ is transforming before my eyes.

It is time to explain why I gave my canoe the name ‘Libertad’. The point is that I consider freedom to be a fundamental human value. I do not mean that kind of freedom where one seeks to free oneself from responsibility; I mean freedom of self-expression, freedom of will and freedom of conscience. This is the kind of freedom that must be defended and protected above all. Sometimes we are told that safety is more important than freedom. This is a delusion, or worse, a manipulation. In South America, every other person can explain why there can be no safety without freedom. History has taught people to say ‘Nunca mas’ to terror and dictatorship. It means ‘Never again.’

I launched the boat on the water and loaded all my belongings. Tomorrow I will be off. I was treated to juane again. When I returned to the boat after dinner, I found some water in it. Quite a lot of water, in fact. I hope I did not make things worse. I expect the planks will absorb some water and expand, sealing the holes between them. I will sleep with one eye open tonight. Good luck to me!